Mites are close relatives of fleas and ticks that infest household reptiles, such as snakes and lizards. They are eight-legged bloodsucking organisms, and can transmit diseases from one reptile to another. The mite species is most commonly found infesting reptile hosts, and are unlikely to feed on non-reptilian hosts. The microscopically small insects are incredibly difficult to eradicate, and cause even more problems than a flea infestation. Many mite treatment products are available at pet stores, but these treatments are usually ineffective. Successful mite eradication requires a two-pronged attack; the reptile’s environment must be treated, and the reptile itself must be treated. The pet’s environment can be treated with pesticides after the pet is removed from its environment. 

Getting rid of mites requires toxic means, so a reptile’s environment must be treated with toxic pesticides, because homeopathic remedies will not work. Toxic products must be used, because mites are tenacious pests who can grow in concentrations large enough to kill a reptile. For treating a lizard, the animal must first be removed from its enclosure, and then placed in a warm, shoulder- deep bath of diluted Betadine. Next, pour the bath over the lizard, being careful to avoid the eyes. The water used in a Betadine bath will flush most of them off and drown them, while the Betadine will help treat any mites’ bites. While the environment is being fumigated, the lizard should be removed from the tub, and a clean cloth should be saturated in diluted Betadine and ran through the joints between the lizard’s legs and body, through the folds around the neck, jowls, and dewlap. A cotton-tipped swab can be used to apply the dilute Betadine around the eyes and nose. Then, rinse it off and keep the lizard in a warm place.

Snakes should be soaked in a Betadine bath that is the same as the one used for lizards. After soaking, dab the snake’s eyes and heat pits with mineral oil. The grooves under the chin, belly scutes, and vent folds, should be checked to remove any excess mites who may be lodged in those areas. If mites are found in these areas of the snake, they can be removed by gently rubbing them from between the scales and folds with a cotton-tipped swab. To treat the reptile’s environment, all the substrates in the enclosure must be removed and disposed in a plastic garbage bag. Next, the enclosure must be vacuumed thoroughly, especially in the angles of the walls. If the tank is made of wood, the owner must lightly scrape the inside angles with the edge of a blunt knife, then vacuum the enclosure again. Scraping the inside angles of the tank will get rid of any mite eggs and mite feces.

A glass or Plexiglas ® reptile tank must be wiped with hot soapy water, rinsed, then disinfected with a bleach-water solution, which should be left to soak for ten minutes and thoroughly rinsed. However, disinfectants do not kill mites, but it may drown them, and may kill any harmful organisms spread by mites. Wooden tank furnishings should be baked in an oven for two to three hours. Heating pads inside tanks should also be unplugged, removed, and cleaned with soapy water, then sprayed with bleach-water. Mites are known to stick to self-adhesive heating pads, so these may have to be removed completely. Light fixtures should also be disconnected and wiped down with a damp cloth to remove any mites lurking there. A “No-Pest” strip should be placed on a piece of foil laid on the enclosure’s floor; several strips may be needed for large enclosures. Finally, seal up the fumigated tank to keep toxic pesticide fumes inside the pet’s tank. Once a mite infestation has been detected, it will be most effective to repeat treatment of the environment and the reptile at least once within a period of two to six weeks after the first treatment.

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